Grungy Green, Gray and Rusted

This Basset mule chest was rather unremarkable, but I picked it up for $15, solid wood, and in relatively good condition. I kept this in my inventory for some time, with no takers, so it became mine to play with.

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Materials List:

1. Furniture Cleaner

2. paint in

  • Spanish Moss
  • Dried Sage
  • Sand Bar
  • Collard Greens
  • Midnight Sky

3. Patina Paint in:

  • Iron
  • Bronze
  • Green and Blue Patina Spray

4. Satin clear coat

5. Flat Clear Coat

6. Wax in Black

7. Water based Gel Stain in:

  • Tobacco Road
  • Black Magic

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All of those drawers spoke to me. I saw that it could look like an old, avocado green 1970’s, industrial and well worn filing cabinet.

With my inspiration in mind, I chose Dixie Belle paint in greens and grays to create my look. The top was in poor condition, full of scratches and pock marks, so rather than sanding them out, I chose to take it down to the bare wood with stripper and sanding.

It then got all body damage sanded out, a good cleaning with Dixie Belle White Lightning Cleaner, and all hardware removed.

That batwing hardware is NOT coming back!

Step 1. Stripping top, cleaning body, removing hardware.

Step 1 Video

With all of our prep work done, the body got a base coat of Spanish Moss. I then used natural bristle brushes to blend in Dried Sage, Collard Greens, Sand Bar, and Midnight Sky. A spray of 50/50 white vinegar and water caused the paint to drip and separate, in line with our grungy inspiration.

Step 2. Base coat, blending, and vinegar/water spray.

Step 2 Video

The final step was staining the top. I initially used a weather wash stain, but decided I wanted a darker look later so I streaked on a water based Gel Stain in Tobacco Road and Black Magic.

I used a mini bbq basting brush (yes, you read that right!) to apply Patina Paint in Iron and Bronze at random. The blue and green sprays caused dripping and started the corrosion process.

2 coats of Satin clear coat for durability and 2 coats of Flat Clear Coat for a smooth, dull finish gave me the look I was after.

I added Black Wax for shading and tiny hints of Finnabair Patina Paste in a bright turquoise as an accent.

Step 3. Staining top, Patina Paint, clear coat.

Step 3 Video

This Post Has 9 Comments

  1. trishden

    Hi Brandy, I’m going to attempt to recreate this look on an old wood veneered file cabinet. I love how your preice came out! I watched your videos and have read these directions and I’m not sure if you added the black wax to the painted body of the piece or the stained top and I wanted to make sure that goes on after the 2 coats of Gator Hide and 2 coats clear finish. Same with your turquoise accents, do they go on after all finishing? Thanks for your reply. 🙂

    1. Brandy K.

      The black wax and turquoise accents were both on the body after i had sealed the paint

  2. Susan Batson

    Hello Brandy,
    Love this piece! Two questions….Did you put the Clear Flat coat under the gator hide or on top? Also, the Weathered Wood product that you originally used on the top…what is the name of the products/where can I purchase it? Love everything you do…so inspiring!

    1. Brandy K.

      The weathered wood accelerator is by varathane. The gator hide was on top and flat clear on the body

  3. Maria Jose

    I watched all videos from 1 though 3 but it doesn’t look like the pictures. The tutorial said start to finish so not sure where I got lost. Did you add that oranges and blues on another video that was not linked maybe? Thank you!!

    1. Brandy K.

      The orange and blue are the patina paints, they have a chemical reaction with the metal in the paint that causes corrosion

  4. Christine Ann Hruneni

    Hi,,, New to your channel and LOVE watching your techniques! This piece is absolutely amazing. Just the inspiration I need. Thank you.

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